Holy Mole

Real mole is nothing like what is sold in the jar in American supermarkets. Actually, if I can't have the Real McCoy, I don't even bother to eat its watered down substitute. Although I first tasted mole in the mole capital of the world, Oaxaca, home of at least seven different types of mole, I have more recently found it available in any number of restaurants in Mexico City. Of course, some restaurants do a better job preparing it than others.

A Typical Display of Mole at a Mercado

Coox Hanal

Folkloric Dancers at Coox Hanal

At 83 Avenida Isabel la Catolica, just a few blocks from the Zocalo, is one of my favorite restaurants in DF- Coox Hanal. What makes it a bit special is that it specializes in dishes from the Yucatan. From the street, one hardly notices the restaurant sign directing customers to its second floor location. However, once you're at the top of the stairs, you realize what a gem this eatery is. In addition to great Yucatec food, we were treated to an afternoon of traditional folkloric dancing. This isn't a tourist spot! When we were there, the restaurant was packed with local Chilangos.

Panuchos & Salbutes

As colorful and entertaining as the ambiance is, go there for the food! As I hadn't been there before, I asked our waitress to pick out four of their specialities that we all could share. Her recommendations were spot on! We started off with a plate of papadzules (tortillas rolled up with chopped egg, covered in a green pumpkin seed or pipian sauce). Delicious! I could easily have eaten a whole serving of these. We also tried the panuchos (tortillas with black beans and cochinita pibil).Our third starter were the salbutes, another Yucatec tostada covered with shreaded turkey, pickled onions and avocado. Finally, our large order of cochinita pibil came. The shreaded pork with tortillas was enough to feed two tables of people. All this was washed down with ice cold beer.

 

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Pozole To Die For!

My brother has suggested that I should have called my blog "Mexico City: One Taco At A Time." Now, there's a modicum of truth to his keen observation. Therefore, today, I broke with my 'apparent' pattern and went in search of the best bowl of pozole in town. And, I believe I found it! There are many pozolerias to choose from. I went with a recommendation from my Good Food in Mexico City guide and headed back to the Santa Maria de Ribera neighborhood to find La Casa de Toño. Although this appears to be a chain, I am pleased to say that the pozole rojo lived up to the hype.

A Large Bowl of Pozoze Rojo

This large bowl of pozole cost only $43MEX or about $3.50US. Add a nice cold glass of horchata to drink and the highly recommended flan de la abuela (I like to translate this as Grandma Zeta's flan) for desert and you have a whole meal.

A Memory From Childhood - Grandma Zeta's Flan

Although I didn't have to wait for a table, by the time I left (and I wasn't hurried), the wait looked substantial. The beautiful 19th century building housing the restaurant is a treat in and of itself. High ceilings and mural painted walls create a relaxing environment for a meal anytime of day.

 

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Santa Maria La Ribera

My trusty guide, Lonely Planet's Mexico City - City Guide, helped me find a most unvisited neighborhood this morning. Santa Maria La Ribera is described as one of the first residential neighborhoods constructed outside the city center. Today, it is a place that is as "regular" as any neighborhood in any city and is easily reached by subway. However, from an architectural point of view, this neighborhood is well worth visiting and its central park - the Alameda Santa Maria is a real gem.

The Alameda Santa Maria

In the center of the park is the Kiosco Morisco. This kiosk was built in 1885 as Mexico's pavilion at the New Orleans World Expo and was relocated here in 1910 as part of the centennial celebration of independence. Its arabesque shape with Moorish archways is capped with a glass dome.

Inside the Kiosck Morisco

Strolling around the neighborhood, one finds numerous eateries, hair salons (more than you can imagine can all be supported), and, of course, a wonderful local market, Mercado Sabino. My easy trip to Santa Maria La Ribera was a nice break from the city center.

 

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Now, This Is A Hole-In-The-Wall Joint

Just a block off the Zocalo, the central plaza, I stumbled upon Tacos de Canasta El Flaco. By every sense of the term, this is a 10 X 5 hole-in-the-wall place serving up some tasty tacos canasta. These are also know as sweaty tacos or basket tacos since they are steamed. About six varieties are offered along with soft drinks. As these are made in advance, a large crowd can be served in no time at all.

Tacos de Canasta El Flaco

When researching this type of taco, I found a great article in Street Food LA that gives a great review of El Flaco along with more photos. Since that article was published three years ago, I see that the price of tacos canasta has only changed 1 peso. They're now 8 cents more expensive.

I had a mashed potato or "papas" taco tonight along with lots of spicy pickled carrots. Check out the sweaty tacos in the Street Food LA link above. Judging by the size of the crowd eating these on the street tonight, this is one heck of a popular place. For just 50 cents, who can't find room for one more taco.

 

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Tacos, Tacos and More Tacos (Part 2)

Never judge a book by its cover! I've become a real believer in those hole-in-the-wall joints that offer some of the tastiest treats to be found anywhere.

Tacos de Cabeza Los Gueros

So, let me help you out and teach you some Spanish. Cabeza means head. And in this case, it was the taco filling of choice at this tacqueria. When I asked about their specialty, all he said was "cabeza". I was sold immediately! What kind of head you ask (not that it really matters), but tonight it was beef. On other occasions, it's likely to be sheep.

Grillin' Up The Goodies!

All the taco joints do it roughly the same way. Meat is both slow cooked and grilled on the same skillet that one sees where ever tacos are sold. However, not all tacos are created even. At Los Gueros, they have perfected the head taco all for under $1.

Doesn't It Make You Want to Order A Second One?

If you didn't know this came out of the cow's head, you'd swear you were just eating pot roast. So, as Andrew Zimmeren loves to say, "If it looks good, eat it!"

 

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La Comida Corrida

Most Mexicans eat a larger meal in the afternoon, particularly on weekends, than in the evening. Everywhere, one can find a "fixed price" three-course meal set in a family-style environment that's called "la comida corrida." Walking down the street, one such place caught my attention -El Sazón Oaxaqueño. Nothing fancy on the outside, but several things got me interested: 1) food from Oaxaca, 2) the sign board out front advertised "chili en nogada" a specialty not always available, 3) lots of locals heading upstairs to the second floor restaurant, and 4) the price. The dinner I wanted with drink would cost me just $60MEX or $5US (the chili was a dollar more than some other choices). At less fancy places, alright some pretty scruffy places, the comida corrida may only cost about $35MEX. At these prices, many families are regularly see eating out.

The Fixed Menu Changes Daily

I've only had a chili en nogada once before here in DF. As you can see from the photo, it's almost big enough to feed two.

This large poblano pepper is filled with a combination of meat, raisins, and spices. It is then covered with a room temperature walnut sauce and finished off with pomegranate seeds. Typically, this dish is only found certain times of the year or served on special occasions. As tomorrow is a national holiday, the birthday celebration of former President Benito Juarez, that might be the reason I found this chili dish today. I'd better head out for a long walk to help dinner digest.

 

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Tostadas of Coyocan

Yes, I have been known to travel across town just to find a good place to eat. And, that's exactly what I did on Saturday. Coyoacan is a magical neighborhood south of the center of the city. You may remember the name from the film Frida. It's where she and Diego Rivera lived for many of their years here in Mexico City. Today, I was in search of what has been described as one of the great tostadas in the city. Although I had eaten at the Coyoacan Market on previous trips, I hadn't noticed the eatery Tostadas de Coyoacan. What great food and so much fun! I sat right in the middle of the tostada action that was fast and furious from the time I got there to when I left.

Tostada Makers Hard At Work

As you can see in the photo, piles of topping just wait to be spooned onto a nice crisp tortilla and then only to be finished off with lettace, crema, and avocado. Only order one at a time! Most likely you'll want to sample more than just one kind. My inclinations today went toward octopus and shrimp. Both were delicious.

Don't Just Sit There, Order Another Tostada!

 

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Tacos, Tacos, and More Tacos (Part I)

One of my true delights in DF has been my search for the perfect taco. My Thursday night taco crawl took me over to Lopez Street, just a few blocks from my hotel. In addition to being the neighborhood of the excellent San Juan Market, it also supports more taco joints per block than maybe any other single street in the city. Thanks to my trusted guidebook Good Eats in Mexico City, I was able to identify a half dozen tacquerias that made it to my must visit/eat there list.

Chorizo Verde

Heading off, I knew my first stop was to be Ricos Tacos Toluca to try their green chorizo taco. The green is due to the use of pignole nuts. As some chorizo can be quite spicy, this wasn't at all. The raw sausage is chopped, grilled, and served with grilled onions and french fries. To top an almost perfect taco off, one can add fresh home-made guacamole and a killer salsa that even a gringo can eat (in moderation).

Grilling the Chorizo to Perfection

Of course, the taste of the pudding is in its eating. So, I decided to eat two since the first one was so good. Sitting on a stool on the sidewalk with half a dozen others, we all enjoyed one of the best and more unique tacos to be found in the city.

 

They Were So Good That This Is My Second One

Don't let looks fool you. This was delicious. ¡Buen provecho!

 

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Breakfast in Mexico

Start the day off with a good breakfast! The Café El Popular is one of my favorite spots for a typical Mexican breakfast.

El Popular - One of the great simple eateries in downtown Mexico City

About a dozen breakfast combinations are offered every day. For only $61MEX ($4.50 US), I got a large café con leche, a plate of fruit, and chicken enchiladas in green sauce. El Popular may easily be where I start everyday just so I can try all of the delicious looking breakfast entrees.

Chichen Enchiladas in Salsa Verde

 

 

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