Saturdays in San Angel

After visiting many of the standard sites around the city, spend a Saturday strolling around San Angel. In addition to some fine eateries, most of your entertainment will be had visiting with local artists and craftspersons.

Plaza San Jacinto offers great opportunities to purchase some lovely fine art offered by local artists.

Sculpture, paintings & photographs!

 

Tribute to Diego in Plaza San Jacinto

Not far from the Plaza is the studio museum of Diego Rivera. Take the time to leisurely walk the narrow, cobblestone streets of San Angel.

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As I may prefer wandering from village to village when in Mexico, many of my favorite spots can be found near water. In particular, I have come to love the beaches around Huatulco. Check out a few of these hidden gems in this article.

Mexico's Hidden Beaches

 

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The Palacio National

A trip to Mexico City wouldn't have been complete without a stop at the Palacio National to see perhaps Rivera's best murals. I say best, and not necessarily my favorite, because of the complicated nature and size of this project. This set of murals was begun in 1929. The staircase mural is a real masterpiece showing Mexico Through the Centuries.

Inside Courtyard at the Palacio National

The size, the angles, and the crowds make the staircase particularly difficult to photograph. Nonetheless, the amount of detail in the mural shows why it took Rivera six years to complete it. Rivera returned to the National Palace to complete the project between 1945 and 1951. In the set of murals at the top of the staircase on the first floor, he has a detailed presentation of the pre-Hispanic cultures of Mexico. The vision of ancient Tenochtitlan (modern day downtown Mexico City), gives the viewer a sense of how expansive and advanced this civilization was.

Detail from the Staircase Mural

Detail from Images of Ancient Tenochititlan

Tattoos & Piercings! So, what's so different today?

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Just when you think that there couldn't be any new archeological discoveries, something new pops up. Check out this article on previously unknown cave paintings in northern Mexico.

http://archaeologynewsnetwork.blogspot.com/2013/05/5000-cave-paintings-found-in-northern.html

 

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Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe 3

From churches to museums to art galleries, it's difficult not to encounter Our Lady of Guadalupe. Including the Mexican flag, it is the most ionic image displayed in the most Catholic country.

This particular image of the Virgin immediately grabbed my attention due to the material from which it was constructed. The artist fashioned her image out of natural materials and gave her decidedly indigenous features. Most likely, this would have been how the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego in 1531 rather than more European as she is often depicted.

 

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When in DF, I spend most of my time walking the streets in one neighborhood or another. I'll use the metro to get me to the section of the city that interests me, but from there, it's all on foot. Check out this article about walking around this megacity.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2013/feb/08/walking-mexico-city-dbc-pierre

 

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Deconstructing Frida Kahlo

One of my favorite painting by Frida Kahlo is her self-portrait entitled Las Dos Fridas completed in 1939. As one visits the museums around Mexico City, paintings by Kahlo are relatively scarce. However, if you venture out to Chapultepec Park you'll find the very enjoyable Museo de Arte Moderno that houses the Kahlo masterpiece. This museum also contains canvasses by Dr. Atl, Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco, and O'Gorman.

In this particular painting, Frida presents two sides of her personality. In the top image, she is in a traditional Tehuana costume and represents the woman Diego respected and loved. The bottom image shows her in a Victorian wedding dress and represents the Frida who Diego abandoned. The hearts of the two Fridas are exposed. This is a convention she repeatedly used to express her pain.

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I've always enjoyed Cinco de Mayo here in the States and usually try to catch dinner in a local Mexican restaurant or cook up some delicious recipe at home from south of the border. But, do you know what the significance of this day is in Mexican history?

http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/3407-cinco-de-mayo-what-is-everybody-celebrating

 

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Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of Plaza San Jacinto is the pleasant Museo Casa del Risco. Set inside an 18th century building, the two story fountain (pictured) is the key attraction. Additionally, one can see an interesting collection of 14th to 19th century European and Mexican art from the private collection of the Fabela family. The fountain itself consists of seashells, Talavera pottery, and Chinese porcelain. A quick visit here can be easily included on any trek through the San Ángel district. A number of good eateries an coffee shops can also be found in this part of town. Admission to the museum is free.

 

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Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes

Built around 1905, the Fine Arts Museum is one of the showcase buildings in Mexico City. Located next to Alameda Central park, it houses some of the finest art found in the city. In addition, the Ballet Folclórico de México regularly performs here on Wednesdays and Sundays. From the Palacio, it's just a short walk down Madero Street to the Zocalo.

A Touch Of Modern Art In Front Of The Palacio

On Sundays after 10 am, one can visit the museum for free. Between the park, numerous museums, and its proximity to the Catedral Metropolitana and other city center sites, one can easily wile way the better part of a weekend.

Choc Mool Meets Art Decco

Inside the museum, one is treated to the mural masterpieces of Rivera, Orozco, and Siqueiros Above all of them, Rivera's Man at the Crossroads stands out. This piece was recreated after the original one commissioned for the Rockefeller Center was thoughtless destroyed due to anticapitalist themes.

 

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Fooling Around in Mexico City

The Blogger At Work!

Walking down Madero Street (the wonderful pedestrian thoroughfare from the Zócalo to the Palacio de Bellas Artes), I stumbled upon this playful piece of modern sculpture just calling out my name. In a moment of whimsy, my creative brother snapped this shot promising me that it was truly a "one of a kind" moment now captured forever digitally. Alright, so how do I now get even with him? Let me think! Oh yes, go back and check out my "Doors and Windows Series" blog posting!

 

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Mercado Abelardo Rodriquez

A pleasant little market for both shopping, lunch and great art is the Mercado Abelardo Rodriguez. From the Plaza de Santo Domingo, just take a right down Rep. de Venezuela street. In just three blocks or so, you'll come upon the market. As with most markets in the city and throughout Mexico, numerous small eateries offer some of the tastiest and least expensive food in town

Mural Inside the Mercado Depicting Class Struggles

However, what makes this market stand out are the murals found at the entrances and on the second floor. Depicting scenes of class struggle and inequities, muralists from the 1920s, under the tutelage of Diego Rivera, practiced their trade and left a lasting and historically important picture of Mexican life. Unlike at the Palacio Nacional, you'll have these murals all to yourself as the locals go about their daily activities. Don't forget to try a chili rellano if you are there around lunchtime.

 

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Teotihuacan

Pyramid of the Moon

A visit to Mexico City without a side trip out to Teotihuacan is almost like a visit to Cairo without going to see the Great Pyramids at Giza. This ancient Aztec site is one of the Wonders of the World in the Americas. By a combination of subway and bus, one can get to the archaeological site in under a hour (no need to pay for a group or escorted trip to the pyramids when it's easy and safe enough to do it on your own). Plan on spending a full half day exploring the site once you get there. It's immense! If you've been to Chichén Itzá in the past few years, you know that you can no longer climb to the top of El Castillo or the great pyramid there. This is not the case at Teotihuacan. Climb the stairs of both the Temple of the Moon and the Temple of the Sun. Not only do you get he very best view of the entire archaeological park, but also of the entire valley that the ancient Aztecs once called home. You'll marvel at how such colossal structures could have been build and wonder about the ceremonial practices that once took place within such a complex. A trip here will be one of your highlights of your visit to DF.

 

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Inside the World of Diego Rivera

Following my guidebook, I strolled through the cobblestone streets of San Angel on a beautiful Saturday afternoon. My goal was to reach Diego and Frida's Studio/Museum. Narrow streets and lovely colonial architecture characterize this up-scale neighborhood.

Inside Diego's Studio

One can easily imagine what life was like in the San Angel house for the artists. Many of Diego's creations are still in place just as they were when he worked here from the 1930s until his death in 1957. The whimsical paper-mâché figures are amazing and so representative of Mexican culture and art.

The Amazing World Created By Diego

The museum is free to teachers with a valid ID. However, there is a nominal charge if you want to take photographs.

 

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Orozco and Cortés

I've mentioned my visits to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso before, but always in the context of seeing Rivera's first great Mexico City mural La Creación. However, there are many other very good reasons for a visit to more than just the amphitheater here. Other contemporaries of Rivera also contributed murals to the walls of this former 16th century Jesuit college. In particular, José Clemente Orozco's portrait of the famous conquistador Cortés and his mistress, La Malinche, can be found underneath one of the staircases on the main patio. Works by muralist David Siqueiros also adorn the many walls of this structure. Further, regular temporary exhibitions are hosted here as well as bi-monthly recitals in the amphitheater.

 

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Street Art (Part 3)

I'll call this wall mural that I found while walking around the Santa Maria de Ribera neighborhood "The Maestro & His Deamons." The late afternoon sun made the mural seem to dance as if its images were trying to escape the two dimensional surface on which they had been painted. Just next to the mural, street vendors were readying themselves for a busy Friday evening selling everything from children's clothing to bootleg DVDs to popular snacks.

 

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The Eternal Flame

Within a stone throw of UNAM (The University of Mexico), one finds the Olympic Stadium home for yet another Diego Rivera creation. In celebration of the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City, this extraordinary mosaic adorns the front of the stadium. The lighting of the flame by both male and female competitors signifies both the spirit of the games as well as Mexico's long history, tradition, and the importance of sports in this country.

 

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Where Am I? Paris, France? No way!

Just steps away for the Palacio des Bellas Artes on one side and Alameda Park on the other is this entrance to the Mexico City metro. What is most curious is that this is one of the classic metro entrance markers still found today in Paris. Nonetheless, it fits in perfectly next to the art nouveau style of the Fine Arts Museum. No doubt, the designers had this in mind when a small piece of Paris was installed to complement the iconic Mexico City museum housing some of the greatest murals to be seen in the city. Remember, visiting the museum is free on Sundays.

 

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Mixing The New With The Old

From a number of perspectives, a visit to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso is always worthwhile. As it is located just two blocks east of the Zocalo, it's a convenient stop on any itinerary of the historical district. First, in the Simon Bolivar Amphitheater, you can see Diego Rivera's first DF mural "La Creación." Taking in a Sunday afternoon concert in this theater is a real treat. Second, the Colegio also is the home of many other murals by contemporaries of Rivera such as Orozco and Siqueiros. Finally, as you can see in his photo, regular temporary exhibitions find a showing here. Inside one of the courtyards, a modern sculpture installation challenges the classic lines of this 300 year old colonial structure. No admission charge on Tuesdays.

 

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Hangin' Out At The Casa Azuz

There's a wonderful picture of Diego and Frida at the Casa Azul on this porch in this exact pose. Please excuse my self-indulgence of recreating it with my wife on our visit to the museum. When visiting Coyoacan, a visit to the Frida Kahlo Museum is a must. Often, it can be crowded, but with a little luck you might be able to catch it on a week day when the crowds are less and the tranquility of the beautiful garden can offer you a glimpse of what they came to love about it. Take the time to have a coffee in the cafe, roam through the bookstore, and meander among the flowers and statuary in the garden. It's a great respite from the outside world. As everyone will tell you, Coyoacan is a wonderful neighborhood to wile away a day.

 

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Life Imitating Art

Strolling back from lunch at the Mercado Abelardo Rodriguez, I stumbled upon these recycling bins near the Plaza de Loreto. In the city's effort to become more "green", it also appears that they kept ascetics in mind when designing trash receptacles. Colorful, playful, and visually appealing bins encourage anyone in this neighborhood to recycle. I bet kids love to throw items into these containers. Jump on an Ecobici and start saving the planet!

 

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Ok, Recognize This Place?

Architecturally, this is one of the coolest places in Mexico City. It was designed by architect and painter Juan O'Gorman for "famous" friends of his in the 1930s. If you saw a recent film staring Selma Hayek, this is where a number of scenes were filmed. Alright, I've probably already given it away. If you guessed that the famous friends were Diego and Frida, you're correct. This is the outside of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera Y Frida Kahlo. Each had a separate house and studio here at the residence in San Angel. After their divorce, Frida then moved to the Casa Azul in Coyoacan. Inside, one can view Diego's studio just as it was when he worked in it.

 

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The Most Intriguing Diego

One of the very best reasons to venture into Chapultepec Park is to see the most unique and intriguing of Rivera's creations in Mexico City. The Fuente de Tláloc presents one a 3-D tiled fountain sculpture capturing the essence of the Native Mexican spirit.

The image one sees depends on which side of the fountain one views this masterpiece that Rivera started in 1952.

Inside the municipal water system building, Rivera muraled the Carcamo, the water tank designed for diverting water to the fountain.

As the murals quickly deteriorated due to the water, only recently has their restoration been completed and reopened to the public for viewing.

One may not be able to find a more peaceful spot in the city than this section of the park.

 

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