A Trip To The Mercado de Jamaica

Flowers By The Dozens

Although not all that commonly visited by tourists in DF with limited time, a trip to the Flower Market is well worth the effort. Centrally located, metro station Jamaica, it's a quick ride where you get off right at the market. Plan on spending a couple of hours wandering through the flower stalls and watching flower merchants prepare dazzling arrangements for customers.

Arrangements For Any Occasion

You'll be overwhelmed by the pure volume and diversity of flowers available on a daily basis most any time of the year.

A Rose Is A Rose Is A Rose

Also plan to have lunch at one of the numerous eateries located within the market. The day I was there, I indulged in a couple of delicious tacos de lengua (tongue tacos) along with a tall glass of tepache (a fermented pineapple drink).

Blogger Enjoying A Taco de Lengua At Mercado de Jamaica

 

CHECK THIS OUT:

An interesting article about an unsuspecting group of American illegals in Mexico. I guess the problem goes both ways.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-radio-and-tv-17098719

 

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The Goat Guy

Many treats, visual and gustatory, await the inquisitive traveler when visiting the mercado. It was most interesting to watch this butcher prepare these goats for sale. One of my favorite indulgences in the markets, when I can find it, is a nice hot bowl of birria or a couple of birria tacos. Depending on what mercado one visits around Mexico, it's not uncommon to find vendor after vendor specializing in barbacoa. Goat happens to be a favorite of mine! It's different than beef or pork, probably more similar to lamb, but not so pungent as the more mature mutton. Birria is basically stewed meat with assorted spices and chilis that is slow cooked. Served either in a bowl or in tacos, it is a specialty well worth looking for when traveling in Mexico.

 

CHECK THIS OUT:

A new project in Mexico City turned unused space into productive commercial and socal areas.

http://trap.it/8upmBj

 

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Pieces & Parts: Fun At The Market

Unlike north of the Border, little of the animal is wasted in Latin-American cultures. I had the unique opportunity of shopping with friends for dinner one day. After scouting around in the mercado, we finally found the perfect pig's head to take back for dinner. The señora of the household slow-cooked the head for hours until everything fell off the bones. Once this was complete, all the meat was finely chopped up and served in fresh tortillas accompanied by cilantro, onions, and salsa. The mixture of both textures ans tastes made these some of the best tacos I've had. Talk about stuffing ourselves like "piggies"!

 

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Holy Mole

Real mole is nothing like what is sold in the jar in American supermarkets. Actually, if I can't have the Real McCoy, I don't even bother to eat its watered down substitute. Although I first tasted mole in the mole capital of the world, Oaxaca, home of at least seven different types of mole, I have more recently found it available in any number of restaurants in Mexico City. Of course, some restaurants do a better job preparing it than others.

A Typical Display of Mole at a Mercado

Mercado Abelardo Rodriquez

A pleasant little market for both shopping, lunch and great art is the Mercado Abelardo Rodriguez. From the Plaza de Santo Domingo, just take a right down Rep. de Venezuela street. In just three blocks or so, you'll come upon the market. As with most markets in the city and throughout Mexico, numerous small eateries offer some of the tastiest and least expensive food in town

Mural Inside the Mercado Depicting Class Struggles

However, what makes this market stand out are the murals found at the entrances and on the second floor. Depicting scenes of class struggle and inequities, muralists from the 1920s, under the tutelage of Diego Rivera, practiced their trade and left a lasting and historically important picture of Mexican life. Unlike at the Palacio Nacional, you'll have these murals all to yourself as the locals go about their daily activities. Don't forget to try a chili rellano if you are there around lunchtime.

 

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Esquites & Elote: Street Food Treats

Esquites at The Mercado de Jamaica

On my wanderings through the unforgettable flower market in the Mercado de Jamaica, I treated myself to a cup of esquites to satisfy my hunger until lunchtime. This simple corn dish prepared with a hint of peppers and spices was perfect for taking the edge off a growling stomach (it had been a couple of hours since an early morning breakfast at Cafe El Popular). Esquites as well as elote, Mexican-style corn-on-the-cob, are common snacks found on street corners, markets, and parks. Elote seems a bit more popular. When positioned on a popsicle stick, this corn lathered in mayonnaise or crema mexicana, crumbled queso fresco, and chili pepper, is a most transportable snack. Kids and adults alike love this very available corn treat. Often cooked on small coal grills set up almost anywhere a crowd is, elote should also be part of your Mexican experience.

Elote Fresh from Casa Willy

 

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The Original Fast Food

Tortilla Machine Goin' Strong

What's commonplace to every Mexican boy and girl may appear intriguing to those of us less familiar with it. Yes, the relatively high speed tortilla machine! Of course, some restaurants still make their tortillas by hand, but much more common are the shops that sell warm, freshly made tortillas by the dozens. At particular times of the day, you're likely to see a line of people waiting patiently to get their daily batch of tortillas to take home. Pounds and pounds of masa have been prepared so as to have a nearly non-stop assembly line of this necessary ingredient at every meal. There's nothing better than a warm tortilla hot off the production line.

 

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Scenes From The Street 1

Wow, could that really be Carlos Santana? Unfortunately, no! While walking through the mercado in Coyoacan, this strolling musician, just making a living the best way he knew how, added to the market excitement and fun. Like so any street musicians, this local "character" serenaded shoppers and diners with catchy, up-beat canciones. While there, be sure to stop by Tostadas de Coyoacan for a lunch you'll be telling everyone about.

 

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Working From Home (Almost)!

Delivery To Your Front Door

Fresh mangos and avocados delivered to your doorstep in some cases! Whether it's in the city or in a smaller town, vendors selling fresh fruits and vegetables from the back of their trucks throughout the neighborhoods is a fairly common site. For as little as 10 pesos (less than $1US), one can buy a bag of ripe mangos. These guys even beat the nearly rock bottom produce prices you find in the mercados. But, they're always on the move so you have to catch them when you see them!

 

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The Mexican Market

Hardly any shopping experience will compare to that found at the local market. Fresh produce, dried peppers, and an array of exotic to typical products are to be found throughout. Although markets vary in size from the large Mercado Merced to the much smaller Mercado San Juan, they all draw local shoppers in for their daily needs. From the housewife to the professional chef, all can find what they need to prepare the tasty dishes Mexico is know for. Most market also offer a number of inexpensive eateries where one can have an excellent lunch.

Fresh Veggies To Die For!

Chicharron - A Mexican Favorite

Wall to Wall Peppers

 

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Chopped!

Whether for your home or your business, any size chopping board can be found at this stall in the Mercado Merced. No matter what taco joint you pass in the city, you'll see all of them using these exact chopping boards/blocks to prepare the taco filling. Over time, as with any well used and seasoned utensil, these blocks become concave in shape due to nearly non-stop daily chopping of everything from beef to sausages to selected innards like tripe. Yum!

 

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Hey McDonalds, Come And Get Us!

 

Everyday images to the local shopper are often extraordinary experiences for the traveler. One of my favorite activities is to walk around the markets in Mexico. It's all so different from what we experience at home. Although the smells can be strong (not necessarily unpleasant), I particularly enjoy seeing the variety of meats and seafood available on a daily basis. This small market off Lopez Street and just steps from the larger Mercado San Juan, would be just the place I'd go on daily to get whatever I might need for dinner that evening. By US standards, fresh food is inexpensive and the variety is tremendous.

 

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Leg or Breast?

 

Standards vary from culture to culture. On Lopez Street, shops prepare and sell chicken to area residents and restaurants. What is prepared today is usually sold today as well. Refrigeration and poultry inspection are not common practices in Mexico. In spite of this, problems with contamination aren't generally an issue. Whether in shops like these or in one of the many markets, locals don't blink an eye when it comes to buying meat and poultry for their household tables. Chicken enchiladas anyone? ¡Buen provecho!

 

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The Hidden Murals of Mexico City

The Mercado Abelardo Rodríguez is not only a great spot for lunch, but to also houses some wonderful murals rarely seen by visitors to the capital.

Entrance to Mercado Abelardo Rodríguez

Although the market is just a few blocks off the main plaza, it's obscure enough to only get the neighborhood trade. In the 1930s, under the guidance of Diego Rivera, up and coming artists were commissioned to create murals at the entrances and in the stairways of the mercado. Today, few locals even seem to notice them since they are such an intricate part of the daily surroundings and appear to be nothing special.

Circa1935 Mural Inside the Mercado

Themes common to the struggle of the working man is juxtaposed with images of the wealthy and powerful. Clearly, Rivera's influences can be seen in both the painting techniques as well as in the content of the murals.

Mural depicting the Struggle of the Working Classes

On the second floor of the market, in what is neighborhood's community center, is a three-dimensional mural sculpted out of cement and plaster by Japanese artist Isama Naguchi (rumored to have been one of Frida Kahlo's lovers).

Section of Naguchi Sculpture

 

 

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A Visit To The Market

Whether it's the city or a small town, one of the truly unique experiences in Mexico is a visit to the local market. In Mexico City, there are any number of markets to choose from, large to small, general to specialized. Stomping about the Alameda neighborhood this morning, I stumbled upon a relatively small market near the larger Mercado San Juan.

A Real Seafood Lover's Delight

The selection of fish and seafood was truly amazing. Why wouldn't one come here daily to buy fresh fish, fruit and vegetables?

How About A Lobster Tonight, Gringo?

Of course, no market would be complete without a little butchering going on. Cabrito (young goat) is one of my favorite taco ingredients when I can find it. Or, you can take a whole one home for a backyard barbeque.

Oh mama, get the BBQ going. We're having something special tonight!

Of course, for the less adventurous, there is much more offered such as a tremendous selection of fresh fruits and veggies.

One sees row after row of fresh fruit just like this in every market.

Or, as an appetizer, we could begin with a selection of sausages (some of these happen to be from Spain).

Chorizo and much, much more!

All in all, one can spend hours walking around any of the local markets. In this one, I was also treated to some cheese and wine samples. Mexico is really a very civilized place!

 

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Tostadas of Coyocan

Yes, I have been known to travel across town just to find a good place to eat. And, that's exactly what I did on Saturday. Coyoacan is a magical neighborhood south of the center of the city. You may remember the name from the film Frida. It's where she and Diego Rivera lived for many of their years here in Mexico City. Today, I was in search of what has been described as one of the great tostadas in the city. Although I had eaten at the Coyoacan Market on previous trips, I hadn't noticed the eatery Tostadas de Coyoacan. What great food and so much fun! I sat right in the middle of the tostada action that was fast and furious from the time I got there to when I left.

Tostada Makers Hard At Work

As you can see in the photo, piles of topping just wait to be spooned onto a nice crisp tortilla and then only to be finished off with lettace, crema, and avocado. Only order one at a time! Most likely you'll want to sample more than just one kind. My inclinations today went toward octopus and shrimp. Both were delicious.

Don't Just Sit There, Order Another Tostada!

 

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