The Windows & Doors Series 2

La Risa, the Oldest Pulqueria in Mexico City

The pulqueria is a Mexican institution, but more of the past than the present. Still, today a handful of pulquerias can be found in the capital. Just off Avenida Isabel la Catolica one can find the oldest pulqueria in Mexico City, La Risa. Pulque is an alcoholic beverage made from fermented agave. Plain or flavored (curados), it seems to be regaining the popularity that it once had particularly among college students. On any typical afternoon, it may be hard to find a seat as the pulqeria is most likely jam packed with eager imbibers of the fermented agave juice.

Curados at La Hermana Hortensia

From mango to coconut or pineapple and oat sprinkled with cinnamon or celery, most tastes can be satisfied. In the mid-17th century, over 200 pulquerias could be found in the Centro. Check out one of the few remained watering spots to truly complete your Mexico City experience.

 

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Plaza Garibaldi

Plaza Garibaldi is festively decorated on any number of occasions. This plaza is the gathering spot for the Mexican musicians know as the mariachis. Nightly, group after group of mariachis stroll from cafe to cafe serenading tourists and locals alike. One can also find a nice glass of pulque at La Hermosa Hortencia (a very clean pulqueria you wouldn't mind taking your mother to). Although this neighborhood can be a bit sketchy late at night, it's easy enough to catch an authorized taxi back to your hotel after dinner.

 

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A Tall Glass of Pulque, Just What The Doctor Ordered

Pulque isn't everyone's cup of tea, but it's unique, completely Mexican, and surprisingly tasty. There is the plain white pulque that I find the old-times prefer. Popular among the college crowd are the curados or flavored pulques. My favorite, and I've tasted just a few of the typical flavors available, is mango!

Mango Pulque at Garibaldi Square

It's very much like a fruit nectar except alcoholic. It is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant common to Central Mexico. Tequila also comes from this plant also known as the agave. Pulque drinking goes back to the time of the Aztecs. Today, one typically goes to a pulqueria to imbibe. Often, they are crowded, loud, and a bit on the less sanitary side.

Barrels of Pulque Delivered Fresh Daily

Fewer and fewer pulquerias are to be found today in Mexico City than in years past. Nonetheless, the handful of them, like La Risa (the oldest pulqueria in the city), continue to be popular social spots for young and old.

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