Saturdays in San Angel

After visiting many of the standard sites around the city, spend a Saturday strolling around San Angel. In addition to some fine eateries, most of your entertainment will be had visiting with local artists and craftspersons.

Plaza San Jacinto offers great opportunities to purchase some lovely fine art offered by local artists.

Sculpture, paintings & photographs!

 

Tribute to Diego in Plaza San Jacinto

Not far from the Plaza is the studio museum of Diego Rivera. Take the time to leisurely walk the narrow, cobblestone streets of San Angel.

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As I may prefer wandering from village to village when in Mexico, many of my favorite spots can be found near water. In particular, I have come to love the beaches around Huatulco. Check out a few of these hidden gems in this article.

Mexico's Hidden Beaches

 

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The Gardens of the Casa Azul

Any first visit to Coyoacan usually includes a visit to Frida Kahlo's Casa Azul. In addition to a lovely home and interesting museum, the gardens are well worth the trip in and of themselves.

Of course,since this is a popular tourist destination, it's all the more pleasant when you can find yourself relatively alone in the gardens on a day when the crowds are light.

Wander along the paths surrounded by the most lucious flora one can find in a relatively compact space in any city. Sprinkled throughout are numerous artifacts that only increase the exotic feeling the owners themselves must have once felt as they passed time in this paradise behind stone walls.

After visiting the museum, treat yourself to a coffee or cold drink at the small cafe on the grounds. No need to hurry back to the more frenetic atmosphere found at the central square. Better yet, after visiting here, head a few blocks away to the Trotsky House/Museum for another repite from the madness of the city. Thanks for these great photos brother Bob.

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Last year a tacopedia of Mexico was published. Check out the map below of different types of tacos found around Mexico. As I've said in erlier blogs, there's nothing like a good taco crawl around DF to taste the wide variety of tacos avsilable to the adventurous.

http://www.bonappetit.com/blogsandforums/blogs/badaily/2013/05/mexico-taco-map.html

 

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Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe 3

From churches to museums to art galleries, it's difficult not to encounter Our Lady of Guadalupe. Including the Mexican flag, it is the most ionic image displayed in the most Catholic country.

This particular image of the Virgin immediately grabbed my attention due to the material from which it was constructed. The artist fashioned her image out of natural materials and gave her decidedly indigenous features. Most likely, this would have been how the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego in 1531 rather than more European as she is often depicted.

 

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When in DF, I spend most of my time walking the streets in one neighborhood or another. I'll use the metro to get me to the section of the city that interests me, but from there, it's all on foot. Check out this article about walking around this megacity.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2013/feb/08/walking-mexico-city-dbc-pierre

 

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Deconstructing Frida Kahlo

One of my favorite painting by Frida Kahlo is her self-portrait entitled Las Dos Fridas completed in 1939. As one visits the museums around Mexico City, paintings by Kahlo are relatively scarce. However, if you venture out to Chapultepec Park you'll find the very enjoyable Museo de Arte Moderno that houses the Kahlo masterpiece. This museum also contains canvasses by Dr. Atl, Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco, and O'Gorman.

In this particular painting, Frida presents two sides of her personality. In the top image, she is in a traditional Tehuana costume and represents the woman Diego respected and loved. The bottom image shows her in a Victorian wedding dress and represents the Frida who Diego abandoned. The hearts of the two Fridas are exposed. This is a convention she repeatedly used to express her pain.

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I've always enjoyed Cinco de Mayo here in the States and usually try to catch dinner in a local Mexican restaurant or cook up some delicious recipe at home from south of the border. But, do you know what the significance of this day is in Mexican history?

http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/3407-cinco-de-mayo-what-is-everybody-celebrating

 

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Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of Plaza San Jacinto is the pleasant Museo Casa del Risco. Set inside an 18th century building, the two story fountain (pictured) is the key attraction. Additionally, one can see an interesting collection of 14th to 19th century European and Mexican art from the private collection of the Fabela family. The fountain itself consists of seashells, Talavera pottery, and Chinese porcelain. A quick visit here can be easily included on any trek through the San Ángel district. A number of good eateries an coffee shops can also be found in this part of town. Admission to the museum is free.

 

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Inside the World of Diego Rivera

Following my guidebook, I strolled through the cobblestone streets of San Angel on a beautiful Saturday afternoon. My goal was to reach Diego and Frida's Studio/Museum. Narrow streets and lovely colonial architecture characterize this up-scale neighborhood.

Inside Diego's Studio

One can easily imagine what life was like in the San Angel house for the artists. Many of Diego's creations are still in place just as they were when he worked here from the 1930s until his death in 1957. The whimsical paper-mâché figures are amazing and so representative of Mexican culture and art.

The Amazing World Created By Diego

The museum is free to teachers with a valid ID. However, there is a nominal charge if you want to take photographs.

 

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Comrade Trotsky, We Know Where You Live!

Trotsky House. Guntower added after first assignation attempt.

Coyoacan is one of the most delightful neighborhoods in DF. This is where Diego and Frida lived. Since I had visited their house (La Casa Azul) on an earlier trip, today, my sights were set on the Trotsky House and Museum. Again, if you saw the movie Frida, she and Trotsky became special friends that ultimately lead to a most strained relationship between the Riveras and the Trotskys.

Trotsky Study Where He Was Murdered

Trotsky lived in this house just over a year. However, his grandson maintained it for many more years after his death in 1940. It's a wonderfully peaceful spot and one can only imagine what it was like in Coyoacan then as a rural area outside the city. Any history lover would enjoy a visit to Trotsky's exile home in Mexico.

Wouldn't You Just Die For A Kitchen Like This?

 

 

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Hangin' Out At The Casa Azuz

There's a wonderful picture of Diego and Frida at the Casa Azul on this porch in this exact pose. Please excuse my self-indulgence of recreating it with my wife on our visit to the museum. When visiting Coyoacan, a visit to the Frida Kahlo Museum is a must. Often, it can be crowded, but with a little luck you might be able to catch it on a week day when the crowds are less and the tranquility of the beautiful garden can offer you a glimpse of what they came to love about it. Take the time to have a coffee in the cafe, roam through the bookstore, and meander among the flowers and statuary in the garden. It's a great respite from the outside world. As everyone will tell you, Coyoacan is a wonderful neighborhood to wile away a day.

 

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Diego's "Creation"

A visit to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso is a must every time I visit the city. Although the museum now offers an array of interesting murals and temporary exhibits (see them on Tuesdays when the admission is free), I go to see Rivera's first major mural "The Creation."

As a did last year, I was able to catch a Sunday afternoon concert in the amphitheater with Diego's mural as the backdrop. Sponsored by the university, a ticket for any performance here is only $4. Wow, that's cheap entertainment by any definition. Today's mezzo-soprano and pianist were good although not quite my cup of tea. Nonetheless,a peaceful hour was sent in the shadow of one of Mexico's greatest artists.

 

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