Coox Hanal

Folkloric Dancers at Coox Hanal

At 83 Avenida Isabel la Catolica, just a few blocks from the Zocalo, is one of my favorite restaurants in DF- Coox Hanal. What makes it a bit special is that it specializes in dishes from the Yucatan. From the street, one hardly notices the restaurant sign directing customers to its second floor location. However, once you're at the top of the stairs, you realize what a gem this eatery is. In addition to great Yucatec food, we were treated to an afternoon of traditional folkloric dancing. This isn't a tourist spot! When we were there, the restaurant was packed with local Chilangos.

Panuchos & Salbutes

As colorful and entertaining as the ambiance is, go there for the food! As I hadn't been there before, I asked our waitress to pick out four of their specialities that we all could share. Her recommendations were spot on! We started off with a plate of papadzules (tortillas rolled up with chopped egg, covered in a green pumpkin seed or pipian sauce). Delicious! I could easily have eaten a whole serving of these. We also tried the panuchos (tortillas with black beans and cochinita pibil).Our third starter were the salbutes, another Yucatec tostada covered with shreaded turkey, pickled onions and avocado. Finally, our large order of cochinita pibil came. The shreaded pork with tortillas was enough to feed two tables of people. All this was washed down with ice cold beer.

 

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Scenes From The Street 1

Wow, could that really be Carlos Santana? Unfortunately, no! While walking through the mercado in Coyoacan, this strolling musician, just making a living the best way he knew how, added to the market excitement and fun. Like so any street musicians, this local "character" serenaded shoppers and diners with catchy, up-beat canciones. While there, be sure to stop by Tostadas de Coyoacan for a lunch you'll be telling everyone about.

 

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La Comida Corrida

Most Mexicans eat a larger meal in the afternoon, particularly on weekends, than in the evening. Everywhere, one can find a "fixed price" three-course meal set in a family-style environment that's called "la comida corrida." Walking down the street, one such place caught my attention -El Sazón Oaxaqueño. Nothing fancy on the outside, but several things got me interested: 1) food from Oaxaca, 2) the sign board out front advertised "chili en nogada" a specialty not always available, 3) lots of locals heading upstairs to the second floor restaurant, and 4) the price. The dinner I wanted with drink would cost me just $60MEX or $5US (the chili was a dollar more than some other choices). At less fancy places, alright some pretty scruffy places, the comida corrida may only cost about $35MEX. At these prices, many families are regularly see eating out.

The Fixed Menu Changes Daily

I've only had a chili en nogada once before here in DF. As you can see from the photo, it's almost big enough to feed two.

This large poblano pepper is filled with a combination of meat, raisins, and spices. It is then covered with a room temperature walnut sauce and finished off with pomegranate seeds. Typically, this dish is only found certain times of the year or served on special occasions. As tomorrow is a national holiday, the birthday celebration of former President Benito Juarez, that might be the reason I found this chili dish today. I'd better head out for a long walk to help dinner digest.

 

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Tostadas of Coyocan

Yes, I have been known to travel across town just to find a good place to eat. And, that's exactly what I did on Saturday. Coyoacan is a magical neighborhood south of the center of the city. You may remember the name from the film Frida. It's where she and Diego Rivera lived for many of their years here in Mexico City. Today, I was in search of what has been described as one of the great tostadas in the city. Although I had eaten at the Coyoacan Market on previous trips, I hadn't noticed the eatery Tostadas de Coyoacan. What great food and so much fun! I sat right in the middle of the tostada action that was fast and furious from the time I got there to when I left.

Tostada Makers Hard At Work

As you can see in the photo, piles of topping just wait to be spooned onto a nice crisp tortilla and then only to be finished off with lettace, crema, and avocado. Only order one at a time! Most likely you'll want to sample more than just one kind. My inclinations today went toward octopus and shrimp. Both were delicious.

Don't Just Sit There, Order Another Tostada!

 

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Breakfast in Mexico

Start the day off with a good breakfast! The Café El Popular is one of my favorite spots for a typical Mexican breakfast.

El Popular - One of the great simple eateries in downtown Mexico City

About a dozen breakfast combinations are offered every day. For only $61MEX ($4.50 US), I got a large café con leche, a plate of fruit, and chicken enchiladas in green sauce. El Popular may easily be where I start everyday just so I can try all of the delicious looking breakfast entrees.

Chichen Enchiladas in Salsa Verde

 

 

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