The Palacio National

A trip to Mexico City wouldn't have been complete without a stop at the Palacio National to see perhaps Rivera's best murals. I say best, and not necessarily my favorite, because of the complicated nature and size of this project. This set of murals was begun in 1929. The staircase mural is a real masterpiece showing Mexico Through the Centuries.

Inside Courtyard at the Palacio National

The size, the angles, and the crowds make the staircase particularly difficult to photograph. Nonetheless, the amount of detail in the mural shows why it took Rivera six years to complete it. Rivera returned to the National Palace to complete the project between 1945 and 1951. In the set of murals at the top of the staircase on the first floor, he has a detailed presentation of the pre-Hispanic cultures of Mexico. The vision of ancient Tenochtitlan (modern day downtown Mexico City), gives the viewer a sense of how expansive and advanced this civilization was.

Detail from the Staircase Mural

Detail from Images of Ancient Tenochititlan

Tattoos & Piercings! So, what's so different today?

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Just when you think that there couldn't be any new archeological discoveries, something new pops up. Check out this article on previously unknown cave paintings in northern Mexico.

http://archaeologynewsnetwork.blogspot.com/2013/05/5000-cave-paintings-found-in-northern.html

 

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Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe 2

Antigua Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe

Although many travel to the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe for religious reasons, the student of architecture and history will equally enjoy a pilgrimage to the holiest of sites in Mexico City. The new basilica, opened in 1987 with a capacity of nearly 40,000. However, the architectural treasure of La Villa de Guadalupe is by far the the Antigua Basílica built around 1700. In the alterpiece, you can see a marble statue of Juan Diego. As you approach the complex from the metro station, it is the old basilica that one first sees. This is the same sight that prilgrims would have experienced after their long journey.

 

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A little of everything is to be found in Mecico City. Check this out! A naked bicycle rally!

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-latin-america-22831366

 

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Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of Plaza San Jacinto is the pleasant Museo Casa del Risco. Set inside an 18th century building, the two story fountain (pictured) is the key attraction. Additionally, one can see an interesting collection of 14th to 19th century European and Mexican art from the private collection of the Fabela family. The fountain itself consists of seashells, Talavera pottery, and Chinese porcelain. A quick visit here can be easily included on any trek through the San Ángel district. A number of good eateries an coffee shops can also be found in this part of town. Admission to the museum is free.

 

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Orozco and Cortés

I've mentioned my visits to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso before, but always in the context of seeing Rivera's first great Mexico City mural La Creación. However, there are many other very good reasons for a visit to more than just the amphitheater here. Other contemporaries of Rivera also contributed murals to the walls of this former 16th century Jesuit college. In particular, José Clemente Orozco's portrait of the famous conquistador Cortés and his mistress, La Malinche, can be found underneath one of the staircases on the main patio. Works by muralist David Siqueiros also adorn the many walls of this structure. Further, regular temporary exhibitions are hosted here as well as bi-monthly recitals in the amphitheater.

 

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Where Am I? Paris, France? No way!

Just steps away for the Palacio des Bellas Artes on one side and Alameda Park on the other is this entrance to the Mexico City metro. What is most curious is that this is one of the classic metro entrance markers still found today in Paris. Nonetheless, it fits in perfectly next to the art nouveau style of the Fine Arts Museum. No doubt, the designers had this in mind when a small piece of Paris was installed to complement the iconic Mexico City museum housing some of the greatest murals to be seen in the city. Remember, visiting the museum is free on Sundays.

 

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Mixing The New With The Old

From a number of perspectives, a visit to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso is always worthwhile. As it is located just two blocks east of the Zocalo, it's a convenient stop on any itinerary of the historical district. First, in the Simon Bolivar Amphitheater, you can see Diego Rivera's first DF mural "La Creación." Taking in a Sunday afternoon concert in this theater is a real treat. Second, the Colegio also is the home of many other murals by contemporaries of Rivera such as Orozco and Siqueiros. Finally, as you can see in his photo, regular temporary exhibitions find a showing here. Inside one of the courtyards, a modern sculpture installation challenges the classic lines of this 300 year old colonial structure. No admission charge on Tuesdays.

 

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Hangin' Out At The Casa Azuz

There's a wonderful picture of Diego and Frida at the Casa Azul on this porch in this exact pose. Please excuse my self-indulgence of recreating it with my wife on our visit to the museum. When visiting Coyoacan, a visit to the Frida Kahlo Museum is a must. Often, it can be crowded, but with a little luck you might be able to catch it on a week day when the crowds are less and the tranquility of the beautiful garden can offer you a glimpse of what they came to love about it. Take the time to have a coffee in the cafe, roam through the bookstore, and meander among the flowers and statuary in the garden. It's a great respite from the outside world. As everyone will tell you, Coyoacan is a wonderful neighborhood to wile away a day.

 

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El Correo - Now This Is A Post Office!

Can you imagine mailing a letter or picking up a package in a building that more resembles a palace or a fine arts center? Well, that's exactly the case for anyone looking for postal services in downtown Mexico City. The Palacio Postal is just across the street from the Palacio de Bellas Artes. This early 20th century building was designed in Italian renaissance style and is a real stunner. The bronze rails of the staircase were actually cast in Florence.

Picking Up Your Mail In Style

 

Florentine Railings Highlight the Ornate Staircase

 

 

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Diego's "Creation"

A visit to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso is a must every time I visit the city. Although the museum now offers an array of interesting murals and temporary exhibits (see them on Tuesdays when the admission is free), I go to see Rivera's first major mural "The Creation."

As a did last year, I was able to catch a Sunday afternoon concert in the amphitheater with Diego's mural as the backdrop. Sponsored by the university, a ticket for any performance here is only $4. Wow, that's cheap entertainment by any definition. Today's mezzo-soprano and pianist were good although not quite my cup of tea. Nonetheless,a peaceful hour was sent in the shadow of one of Mexico's greatest artists.

 

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