Leg or Breast?

 

Standards vary from culture to culture. On Lopez Street, shops prepare and sell chicken to area residents and restaurants. What is prepared today is usually sold today as well. Refrigeration and poultry inspection are not common practices in Mexico. In spite of this, problems with contamination aren't generally an issue. Whether in shops like these or in one of the many markets, locals don't blink an eye when it comes to buying meat and poultry for their household tables. Chicken enchiladas anyone? ¡Buen provecho!

 

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Street Art (Part 1)

Although there is a great history and tradition of muralist art in Mexico, there is also a contemporary interest and expression in this mode of artistic expression. Throughout the city, strolling down a street in almost any neighborhood, one can come upon wonderful murals created on the side of a building or an empty wall.

Mural in the Neighborhood of Santa Maria de Ribare

As one never knows what to expect, every excursion onto the streets of DF can be an adventure into the world of Mexican art that is found well beyond the museums and art galleries.

Being Playful on the Playground

 

 

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A Day At The Office

Hungry?

On a typical Saturday on Plaza San Jacinto, this vendor of chips expects a busy day. One can get a nice size bag of chips for about $10MX or less than $1US. As you can see from the top of the cart, most Chilangos (what Mexico City residents call themselves) doctor up their snack with lime and salsa picante. My preference? Just plain old chips.

 

 

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Plaza Garibaldi

Plaza Garibaldi is festively decorated on any number of occasions. This plaza is the gathering spot for the Mexican musicians know as the mariachis. Nightly, group after group of mariachis stroll from cafe to cafe serenading tourists and locals alike. One can also find a nice glass of pulque at La Hermosa Hortencia (a very clean pulqueria you wouldn't mind taking your mother to). Although this neighborhood can be a bit sketchy late at night, it's easy enough to catch an authorized taxi back to your hotel after dinner.

 

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The Grand Dame of Mexico City

 

No visit to Mexico City is complete without visiting its great cathedral. Located on the north side of the Zocalo, the cathedral is without doubt the centerpiece of the capital. Now, and for more than four centuries, the cathedral has served the people of DF as the heart and soul of their faith.

Inside the Cathedral

 

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Heading Home, But More Pics To Share!

I can't believe how quickly 10 days can pass. Another great trip south of the border! With so many more photos to share, my blog will live on. Starting Monday, I'll continue posting pics and cleaver commentary so as to share more of my trip with all of you.

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Tacos, Tacos and More Tacos (Part 3)

By far the tastiest taco I've found this week is the tripe taco. Interestingly, the tripe is triple cooked (it probably has to be). First, it is boiled. Second, it is slow cooked on one of the large grills (as you can see in the photo) giving it both color and intensifying the flavors. Finally, and I've only found it done at this one favorite spot by the hotel, the tripe is grilled after being chopped up and put on a couple of tortillas. Sixty seconds or so later, it's on a plate heading for the customer.

The Tripe Taco Assembly Line

The tacqueria I've come to favor only has eight stools and is truly one of those hole-in-the wall places. But, for only $10MX (less than 80 cents), this spot is busy all day long. It's not unusual to see a crowd standing on the sidewalk eating a plateful of tacos.

The "Perfect" Tripe Taco

As I've become fond of saying, ¡Buen Provecho! Can't you just hear Julia Child saying this after showing you how to make a tripe taco in her fancy French kitchen?

 

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Pozole To Die For!

My brother has suggested that I should have called my blog "Mexico City: One Taco At A Time." Now, there's a modicum of truth to his keen observation. Therefore, today, I broke with my 'apparent' pattern and went in search of the best bowl of pozole in town. And, I believe I found it! There are many pozolerias to choose from. I went with a recommendation from my Good Food in Mexico City guide and headed back to the Santa Maria de Ribera neighborhood to find La Casa de Toño. Although this appears to be a chain, I am pleased to say that the pozole rojo lived up to the hype.

A Large Bowl of Pozoze Rojo

This large bowl of pozole cost only $43MEX or about $3.50US. Add a nice cold glass of horchata to drink and the highly recommended flan de la abuela (I like to translate this as Grandma Zeta's flan) for desert and you have a whole meal.

A Memory From Childhood - Grandma Zeta's Flan

Although I didn't have to wait for a table, by the time I left (and I wasn't hurried), the wait looked substantial. The beautiful 19th century building housing the restaurant is a treat in and of itself. High ceilings and mural painted walls create a relaxing environment for a meal anytime of day.

 

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A Tall Glass of Pulque, Just What The Doctor Ordered

Pulque isn't everyone's cup of tea, but it's unique, completely Mexican, and surprisingly tasty. There is the plain white pulque that I find the old-times prefer. Popular among the college crowd are the curados or flavored pulques. My favorite, and I've tasted just a few of the typical flavors available, is mango!

Mango Pulque at Garibaldi Square

It's very much like a fruit nectar except alcoholic. It is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant common to Central Mexico. Tequila also comes from this plant also known as the agave. Pulque drinking goes back to the time of the Aztecs. Today, one typically goes to a pulqueria to imbibe. Often, they are crowded, loud, and a bit on the less sanitary side.

Barrels of Pulque Delivered Fresh Daily

Fewer and fewer pulquerias are to be found today in Mexico City than in years past. Nonetheless, the handful of them, like La Risa (the oldest pulqueria in the city), continue to be popular social spots for young and old.

P

 

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Santa Maria La Ribera

My trusty guide, Lonely Planet's Mexico City - City Guide, helped me find a most unvisited neighborhood this morning. Santa Maria La Ribera is described as one of the first residential neighborhoods constructed outside the city center. Today, it is a place that is as "regular" as any neighborhood in any city and is easily reached by subway. However, from an architectural point of view, this neighborhood is well worth visiting and its central park - the Alameda Santa Maria is a real gem.

The Alameda Santa Maria

In the center of the park is the Kiosco Morisco. This kiosk was built in 1885 as Mexico's pavilion at the New Orleans World Expo and was relocated here in 1910 as part of the centennial celebration of independence. Its arabesque shape with Moorish archways is capped with a glass dome.

Inside the Kiosck Morisco

Strolling around the neighborhood, one finds numerous eateries, hair salons (more than you can imagine can all be supported), and, of course, a wonderful local market, Mercado Sabino. My easy trip to Santa Maria La Ribera was a nice break from the city center.

 

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Now, This Is A Hole-In-The-Wall Joint

Just a block off the Zocalo, the central plaza, I stumbled upon Tacos de Canasta El Flaco. By every sense of the term, this is a 10 X 5 hole-in-the-wall place serving up some tasty tacos canasta. These are also know as sweaty tacos or basket tacos since they are steamed. About six varieties are offered along with soft drinks. As these are made in advance, a large crowd can be served in no time at all.

Tacos de Canasta El Flaco

When researching this type of taco, I found a great article in Street Food LA that gives a great review of El Flaco along with more photos. Since that article was published three years ago, I see that the price of tacos canasta has only changed 1 peso. They're now 8 cents more expensive.

I had a mashed potato or "papas" taco tonight along with lots of spicy pickled carrots. Check out the sweaty tacos in the Street Food LA link above. Judging by the size of the crowd eating these on the street tonight, this is one heck of a popular place. For just 50 cents, who can't find room for one more taco.

 

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UNAM - The University of Mexico

Today' travels took me to the southern part of the city to visit the University of Mexico. Wow, what a huge campus with thousands of students moving about (I imagine there were just as many in classes). I strolled around the campus for close to two hours (most of the time lost). But, it was worth i!

Mural on the Faculty of Medicine

I was very impressed with the amount of green space available for students to hang out, play soccer, or even study. Over 325,000 students call UNAM home. The key building, muraled on all four side is the university's Rectory. Set among walk ways and grassy areas, this building commands everyone to notice it.

The Rectory

As if this wasn't enough, the muralist Siqueiros, created a politically inspired three-dimensional mural in its shadow.

Section of the Siqueiros Mural

However, the main reason for today's travels was to hopefully get a glimpse of the Rivera mosaic mural on the Olympic Stadium. Although I couldn't get inside the stadium complex, the mural is so prominent on the entrance to the stadium that I was more than pleased to see it from my only available perspective (from outside the front gates).

The 1968 Olympic Stadium

For any fan of Rivera's work, this is a real gem. It's not central in any tour of Mexico City, but if you don't mind a long metro ride and some solid walking, the journey is well worth the effort. I now have yet another favorite Rivera mural in the city. It was also of interest to see where Tommy Smith and John Carlos protested for Black Power after winning olympic medals in track and field.

 

Closeup of Rivera's Olympic Stadium Mural

 

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The Hidden Murals of Mexico City

The Mercado Abelardo Rodríguez is not only a great spot for lunch, but to also houses some wonderful murals rarely seen by visitors to the capital.

Entrance to Mercado Abelardo Rodríguez

Although the market is just a few blocks off the main plaza, it's obscure enough to only get the neighborhood trade. In the 1930s, under the guidance of Diego Rivera, up and coming artists were commissioned to create murals at the entrances and in the stairways of the mercado. Today, few locals even seem to notice them since they are such an intricate part of the daily surroundings and appear to be nothing special.

Circa1935 Mural Inside the Mercado

Themes common to the struggle of the working man is juxtaposed with images of the wealthy and powerful. Clearly, Rivera's influences can be seen in both the painting techniques as well as in the content of the murals.

Mural depicting the Struggle of the Working Classes

On the second floor of the market, in what is neighborhood's community center, is a three-dimensional mural sculpted out of cement and plaster by Japanese artist Isama Naguchi (rumored to have been one of Frida Kahlo's lovers).

Section of Naguchi Sculpture

 

 

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Street Food Worth The Wait

Walking about the city today around lunchtime, I was wondering what I should have to eat. Well, my answer came to me when I saw a long line of people waiting for hauraches. An even larger number of people were sitting on a nearby wall eating them. Rule #1 regarding street food: if the stand is busy, it's probably a good, safe choice. Rule #2: if it looks good, eat there!

As you can see from the photos, a haurache is an oblong shaped, 2-layered corn tortilla with refried beans between the layers. I ordered one with steak that was also topped with a cilantro infused salsa verde, fresh onions, and queso fresco.

For just $2US, I'll be more than stuffed until sometime this evening. ¡Buen provecho!

 

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Money & Banking

There is no scarcity of banks in Mexico. In addition, there are numerous money exchanges particularly in tourist areas (avoid if possible). One gets the best exchange rates at banks. Still, it pays to shop around! As I had to do some banking this morning, I first checked out the bank that I normally use. Unfortunately for them, a competitor down the street was offering a better rate. The peso is relatively strong against the dollar right now. In the past year I have seen rates vary between 14.5 to 11.5 pesos against the US dollar. Right now we're on the lower end of this scale. Nonetheless, I was able to exchange this morning at 12.00. Not too bad! Keep in mind even at this rate buying power is great for us in Mexico. For the security of carrying traveler's checks, the exchange rate is usually about 10% lower. It's all a matter if what you're comfortable with. As I have a safe in my room, I don't mind bringing cash when I'm not moving around too much. I never walk around town with more than I'm willing to loose. One hundred pesos ($8US) fell out of my pocket as I was going into my hotel this afternoon. A man behind me came after me to let me know I had lost it and return it. Cool, huh!

My Next Outfit For A Family Wedding

 

 

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A Visit To The Market

Whether it's the city or a small town, one of the truly unique experiences in Mexico is a visit to the local market. In Mexico City, there are any number of markets to choose from, large to small, general to specialized. Stomping about the Alameda neighborhood this morning, I stumbled upon a relatively small market near the larger Mercado San Juan.

A Real Seafood Lover's Delight

The selection of fish and seafood was truly amazing. Why wouldn't one come here daily to buy fresh fish, fruit and vegetables?

How About A Lobster Tonight, Gringo?

Of course, no market would be complete without a little butchering going on. Cabrito (young goat) is one of my favorite taco ingredients when I can find it. Or, you can take a whole one home for a backyard barbeque.

Oh mama, get the BBQ going. We're having something special tonight!

Of course, for the less adventurous, there is much more offered such as a tremendous selection of fresh fruits and veggies.

One sees row after row of fresh fruit just like this in every market.

Or, as an appetizer, we could begin with a selection of sausages (some of these happen to be from Spain).

Chorizo and much, much more!

All in all, one can spend hours walking around any of the local markets. In this one, I was also treated to some cheese and wine samples. Mexico is really a very civilized place!

 

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