Diego's "Creation"

A visit to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso is a must every time I visit the city. Although the museum now offers an array of interesting murals and temporary exhibits (see them on Tuesdays when the admission is free), I go to see Rivera's first major mural "The Creation."

As a did last year, I was able to catch a Sunday afternoon concert in the amphitheater with Diego's mural as the backdrop. Sponsored by the university, a ticket for any performance here is only $4. Wow, that's cheap entertainment by any definition. Today's mezzo-soprano and pianist were good although not quite my cup of tea. Nonetheless,a peaceful hour was sent in the shadow of one of Mexico's greatest artists.

 

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Tacos, Tacos and More Tacos (Part 2)

Never judge a book by its cover! I've become a real believer in those hole-in-the-wall joints that offer some of the tastiest treats to be found anywhere.

Tacos de Cabeza Los Gueros

So, let me help you out and teach you some Spanish. Cabeza means head. And in this case, it was the taco filling of choice at this tacqueria. When I asked about their specialty, all he said was "cabeza". I was sold immediately! What kind of head you ask (not that it really matters), but tonight it was beef. On other occasions, it's likely to be sheep.

Grillin' Up The Goodies!

All the taco joints do it roughly the same way. Meat is both slow cooked and grilled on the same skillet that one sees where ever tacos are sold. However, not all tacos are created even. At Los Gueros, they have perfected the head taco all for under $1.

Doesn't It Make You Want to Order A Second One?

If you didn't know this came out of the cow's head, you'd swear you were just eating pot roast. So, as Andrew Zimmeren loves to say, "If it looks good, eat it!"

 

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La Comida Corrida

Most Mexicans eat a larger meal in the afternoon, particularly on weekends, than in the evening. Everywhere, one can find a "fixed price" three-course meal set in a family-style environment that's called "la comida corrida." Walking down the street, one such place caught my attention -El Sazón Oaxaqueño. Nothing fancy on the outside, but several things got me interested: 1) food from Oaxaca, 2) the sign board out front advertised "chili en nogada" a specialty not always available, 3) lots of locals heading upstairs to the second floor restaurant, and 4) the price. The dinner I wanted with drink would cost me just $60MEX or $5US (the chili was a dollar more than some other choices). At less fancy places, alright some pretty scruffy places, the comida corrida may only cost about $35MEX. At these prices, many families are regularly see eating out.

The Fixed Menu Changes Daily

I've only had a chili en nogada once before here in DF. As you can see from the photo, it's almost big enough to feed two.

This large poblano pepper is filled with a combination of meat, raisins, and spices. It is then covered with a room temperature walnut sauce and finished off with pomegranate seeds. Typically, this dish is only found certain times of the year or served on special occasions. As tomorrow is a national holiday, the birthday celebration of former President Benito Juarez, that might be the reason I found this chili dish today. I'd better head out for a long walk to help dinner digest.

 

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Meet the Artists

On Saturday or Sunday, the place to be is in the upscale neighborhood of San Angel. This area is dotted with small plazas and parks that on the weekend fill with artisans and craft vendors. There is a rich mix of Mexican crafts and fine art. From the abstract to the fantastic to the more traditional, most art tastes can be found and even purchased if both your wallet and your suitcase are large enough. Although San Angel is a tourist draw, it is much more peaceful than any attraction in the historical central part of DF.

Wonderful Mid-century B&W Photos Of A Simpler Time in Mexico

This is a retirement life I could get used to. Now, I just have to figure out what talent I have that people might pay for.

Artists on Plaza San Jacinto

San Angel comes by its art heritage honestly. This is one of the neighborhoods where Diego and Frida lived. The Diego Rivera Y Frida Kahlo Studio Museum is no more than a 20 minute walk from the plaza.

 

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