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| The Blogger At Work! |
Walking down Madero Street (the wonderful pedestrian thoroughfare from the Zócalo to the Palacio de Bellas Artes), I stumbled upon this playful piece of modern sculpture just calling out my name. In a moment of whimsy, my creative brother snapped this shot promising me that it was truly a "one of a kind" moment now captured forever digitally. Alright, so how do I now get even with him? Let me think! Oh yes, go back and check out my "Doors and Windows Series" blog posting!
Real mole is nothing like what is sold in the jar in American supermarkets. Actually, if I can't have the Real McCoy, I don't even bother to eat its watered down substitute. Although I first tasted mole in the mole capital of the world, Oaxaca, home of at least seven different types of mole, I have more recently found it available in any number of restaurants in Mexico City. Of course, some restaurants do a better job preparing it than others.  |
| A Typical Display of Mole at a Mercado |
Mole poblano is a marvelous combination of spices, nuts, seeds, fruit, and chocolate that takes the form of a thick paste (as seen in the photo above). This then gets easily turned into a savory sauce often served over chicken or enchilladas. On nearly every trip to Mexico, I'll bring home a couple pounds of the paste that can be found in most markets. It keeps very well refrigirated and one can enjoy the authentic tastes of Mexico long after returning home.
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| Mi Lupita, Hole-In-The-Wall Fonda Serving Some Of The Best Mole In DF |
A pleasant little market for both shopping, lunch and great art is the Mercado Abelardo Rodriguez. From the Plaza de Santo Domingo, just take a right down Rep. de Venezuela street. In just three blocks or so, you'll come upon the market. As with most markets in the city and throughout Mexico, numerous small eateries offer some of the tastiest and least expensive food in town
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| Mural Inside the Mercado Depicting Class Struggles |
However, what makes this market stand out are the murals found at the entrances and on the second floor. Depicting scenes of class struggle and inequities, muralists from the 1920s, under the tutelage of Diego Rivera, practiced their trade and left a lasting and historically important picture of Mexican life. Unlike at the Palacio Nacional, you'll have these murals all to yourself as the locals go about their daily activities. Don't forget to try a chili rellano if you are there around lunchtime.
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| Pyramid of the Moon |
A visit to Mexico City without a side trip out to Teotihuacan is almost like a visit to Cairo without going to see the Great Pyramids at Giza. This ancient Aztec site is one of the Wonders of the World in the Americas. By a combination of subway and bus, one can get to the archaeological site in under a hour (no need to pay for a group or escorted trip to the pyramids when it's easy and safe enough to do it on your own). Plan on spending a full half day exploring the site once you get there. It's immense! If you've been to Chichén Itzá in the past few years, you know that you can no longer climb to the top of El Castillo or the great pyramid there. This is not the case at Teotihuacan. Climb the stairs of both the Temple of the Moon and the Temple of the Sun. Not only do you get he very best view of the entire archaeological park, but also of the entire valley that the ancient Aztecs once called home. You'll marvel at how such colossal structures could have been build and wonder about the ceremonial practices that once took place within such a complex. A trip here will be one of your highlights of your visit to DF.
Squatting just outside the Metropolitan Cathedral, this gentleman is clearly deep in thought or study. For many in Mexico, visiting the eglisia or cathedral, in this case, is a daily practice. The importance of faith to many cannot be understated. Prayer and devotion are central values practiced by the Catholic faithful in Mexico. As in this case, it does appear that older individuals are those who you most often see practicing their faith with daily visits to their local places of worship.
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| Esquites at The Mercado de Jamaica |
On my wanderings through the unforgettable flower market in the Mercado de Jamaica, I treated myself to a cup of esquites to satisfy my hunger until lunchtime. This simple corn dish prepared with a hint of peppers and spices was perfect for taking the edge off a growling stomach (it had been a couple of hours since an early morning breakfast at Cafe El Popular). Esquites as well as elote, Mexican-style corn-on-the-cob, are common snacks found on street corners, markets, and parks. Elote seems a bit more popular. When positioned on a popsicle stick, this corn lathered in mayonnaise or crema mexicana, crumbled queso fresco, and chili pepper, is a most transportable snack. Kids and adults alike love this very available corn treat. Often cooked on small coal grills set up almost anywhere a crowd is, elote should also be part of your Mexican experience.
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| Elote Fresh from Casa Willy |
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| La Risa, the Oldest Pulqueria in Mexico City |
The pulqueria is a Mexican institution, but more of the past than the present. Still, today a handful of pulquerias can be found in the capital. Just off Avenida Isabel la Catolica one can find the oldest pulqueria in Mexico City, La Risa. Pulque is an alcoholic beverage made from fermented agave. Plain or flavored (curados), it seems to be regaining the popularity that it once had particularly among college students. On any typical afternoon, it may be hard to find a seat as the pulqeria is most likely jam packed with eager imbibers of the fermented agave juice.
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| Curados at La Hermana Hortensia |
From mango to coconut or pineapple and oat sprinkled with cinnamon or celery, most tastes can be satisfied. In the mid-17th century, over 200 pulquerias could be found in the Centro. Check out one of the few remained watering spots to truly complete your Mexico City experience.
Following my guidebook, I strolled through the cobblestone streets of San Angel on a beautiful Saturday afternoon. My goal was to reach Diego and Frida's Studio/Museum. Narrow streets and lovely colonial architecture characterize this up-scale neighborhood.
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| Inside Diego's Studio |
One can easily imagine what life was like in the San Angel house for the artists. Many of Diego's creations are still in place just as they were when he worked here from the 1930s until his death in 1957. The whimsical paper-mâché figures are amazing and so representative of Mexican culture and art.
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| The Amazing World Created By Diego |
The museum is free to teachers with a valid ID. However, there is a nominal charge if you want to take photographs.
I've mentioned my visits to the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso before, but always in the context of seeing Rivera's first great Mexico City mural La Creación. However, there are many other very good reasons for a visit to more than just the amphitheater here. Other contemporaries of Rivera also contributed murals to the walls of this former 16th century Jesuit college. In particular, José Clemente Orozco's portrait of the famous conquistador Cortés and his mistress, La Malinche, can be found underneath one of the staircases on the main patio. Works by muralist David Siqueiros also adorn the many walls of this structure. Further, regular temporary exhibitions are hosted here as well as bi-monthly recitals in the amphitheater.
Another of Mexico's charms is the music! Whether spontaneous or planned, one can catch musicians on the street (buskers) or in small cafes. But wherever they are, take the time to stop and enjoy their talent. Undoubtedly, someone will be passing the hat or sombrero, in this case, to help them make a living while practicing their art. Mexico City is little different from any other metropolitan area when it comes to street entertainers. Part of the travel experience is the enjoyment of music and art as it takes on the local color of the culture. One need not only go to the museums to enjoy the sights and sounds of Mexico. In fact, boycott the museums and stick to the streets.
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| Trotsky House. Guntower added after first assignation attempt. |
Coyoacan is one of the most delightful neighborhoods in DF. This is where Diego and Frida lived. Since I had visited their house (La Casa Azul) on an earlier trip, today, my sights were set on the Trotsky House and Museum. Again, if you saw the movie Frida, she and Trotsky became special friends that ultimately lead to a most strained relationship between the Riveras and the Trotskys.
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| Trotsky Study Where He Was Murdered |
Trotsky lived in this house just over a year. However, his grandson maintained it for many more years after his death in 1940. It's a wonderfully peaceful spot and one can only imagine what it was like in Coyoacan then as a rural area outside the city. Any history lover would enjoy a visit to Trotsky's exile home in Mexico.
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| Wouldn't You Just Die For A Kitchen Like This? |
What a world of photographic treasures one finds when traveling! Windows and doors are some of my favorite objects to snap photos of in Mexico. Apparently, I'm not the only one who enjoys photographing this subject matter. While walking through the Coyoacan neighborhood, I caught this tourista doing exactly what I was intending to do. I guess, great minds think alike! Watch for more window and door pictures over the next few weeks.
As I travel, I'm lucky enough from time to time to catch an image that captures why I love Mexico so much. In this series, I hope to show you the flavor of this country by presenting some of the people one encounters moving about the city. In this photo, clearly the señora chose her outfit quite appropriately so as to be color coordinated as she passed this particular location. It was just my good fortune to also be in this spot at the same time. Whether you're a first time visitor to Mexico or a snarly expat living there, the brilliant colors that one is surrounded by are part of the charm of the total Mexican experience.
I'll call this wall mural that I found while walking around the Santa Maria de Ribera neighborhood "The Maestro & His Deamons." The late afternoon sun made the mural seem to dance as if its images were trying to escape the two dimensional surface on which they had been painted. Just next to the mural, street vendors were readying themselves for a busy Friday evening selling everything from children's clothing to bootleg DVDs to popular snacks.
Within a stone throw of UNAM (The University of Mexico), one finds the Olympic Stadium home for yet another Diego Rivera creation. In celebration of the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City, this extraordinary mosaic adorns the front of the stadium. The lighting of the flame by both male and female competitors signifies both the spirit of the games as well as Mexico's long history, tradition, and the importance of sports in this country.
By bus, the city of Cuernavaca is only about two hours away from DF. Although I had gone there to see the Rivera murals in the Palacio de Cortes (more on the murals later), I was treated as well to the sight of a gazebo designed by Gustave Eiffel (yes, the tower guy) in the middle of Jardin Juárez.
Unlike most Mexican architecture, this fin de siècle French structure at first strikes one as being geographically out of place, but amazingly at home here in downtown Cuernavaca. Located in the middle of the plaza, shops on the lower level sell fruit and sandwiches. Strolling vendors sell balloons and ice cream. Plenty of benches offer the weary traveler a relaxing spot to take a break. Several nights a week, one can come here for a concert in the park. Ah, Mexico and thank you Señor Eiffel!
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| Tortilla Machine Goin' Strong |
What's commonplace to every Mexican boy and girl may appear intriguing to those of us less familiar with it. Yes, the relatively high speed tortilla machine! Of course, some restaurants still make their tortillas by hand, but much more common are the shops that sell warm, freshly made tortillas by the dozens. At particular times of the day, you're likely to see a line of people waiting patiently to get their daily batch of tortillas to take home. Pounds and pounds of masa have been prepared so as to have a nearly non-stop assembly line of this necessary ingredient at every meal. There's nothing better than a warm tortilla hot off the production line.
Just off Plaza Santo Domingo, these ladies are preparing some of the best quesadillas in the city. Although you can find street food nearly everywhere, one indication of its quality can simply be figured out by counting the number of people waiting in line to get it. At this spot, I treated myself to a killer mushroom and cheese quesadilla along with a refresco (a soda). Eating it right there, standing on the sidewalk, is a great way to start up a conversation with locals or other travelers. This particular food stand is always busy. A friendlier group of ladies loving what they do won't be found elsewhere. ¡Buen provecho!
Just steps away for the Palacio des Bellas Artes on one side and Alameda Park on the other is this entrance to the Mexico City metro. What is most curious is that this is one of the classic metro entrance markers still found today in Paris. Nonetheless, it fits in perfectly next to the art nouveau style of the Fine Arts Museum. No doubt, the designers had this in mind when a small piece of Paris was installed to complement the iconic Mexico City museum housing some of the greatest murals to be seen in the city. Remember, visiting the museum is free on Sundays.
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| Folkloric Dancers at Coox Hanal |
At 83 Avenida Isabel la Catolica, just a few blocks from the Zocalo, is one of my favorite restaurants in DF- Coox Hanal. What makes it a bit special is that it specializes in dishes from the Yucatan. From the street, one hardly notices the restaurant sign directing customers to its second floor location. However, once you're at the top of the stairs, you realize what a gem this eatery is. In addition to great Yucatec food, we were treated to an afternoon of traditional folkloric dancing. This isn't a tourist spot! When we were there, the restaurant was packed with local Chilangos.
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| Panuchos & Salbutes |
As colorful and entertaining as the ambiance is, go there for the food! As I hadn't been there before, I asked our waitress to pick out four of their specialities that we all could share. Her recommendations were spot on! We started off with a plate of papadzules (tortillas rolled up with chopped egg, covered in a green pumpkin seed or pipian sauce). Delicious! I could easily have eaten a whole serving of these. We also tried the panuchos (tortillas with black beans and cochinita pibil).Our third starter were the salbutes, another Yucatec tostada covered with shreaded turkey, pickled onions and avocado. Finally, our large order of cochinita pibil came. The shreaded pork with tortillas was enough to feed two tables of people. All this was washed down with ice cold beer.
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